The Seychelles archipelago offers unique diving opportunities in the world, both in terms of fauna and flora.

The grand, the unique, the exceptional can be found on a few remote islands between the Seychelles and Madagascar, such as Astove Cosmolédo, Aldabra, or Alphonse. These sites are directly over deep waters and are particularly remote and preserved from Mahé. While Astove Cosmolédo and Aldabra, near the cyclone track, remain difficult to access (5 days by sea and flights are expensive and uncertain); the features of Hinatea place us a day away from Alphonse, located 220 miles from Mahé, simplifying logistics. Its magnificent lagoon offers a dreamlike shelter, like an inland lake. Alphonse is bordered by two other islands, Bijoutier and St François, the latter being legendary for fly-fishing enthusiasts. The outer slope of Alphonse and Bijoutier offers dives with a particularly rich reef.

At around 14 m, the Wall: breathtaking... There is life at every level, both in fauna and flora, up to passing large cetaceans. The layering of these dives makes them accessible to both beginners and experts. Of course, a good level allows seeing more. It is very rare to encounter another sailboat, and there are no hotel-organized dives, open only to a few fly-fishers. Sites such as Abbys, Canal la Mort, Eagle Nest, Tokos, Napoleon Point, Bijoutier East, Rainbow Reef, Turtle Paradise... each offer variations enough to fill a week with two dives per day. For night diving, do not forget a dive light.

Imagine: Hinatea is moored on the edge of the wall, the 8 aluminum tanks stored on side racks are ready. Entry is directly from the stern. Friends join us: the descent begins, the first plateau is full of colorful fish but does not interest us yet. Below the stern of the catamaran lies the wall. Schools of trevally emerge, busy with their hunt. Red snapper and a Napoleon appear to stand guard. Friends are here too, with an irresistible urge for the deep blue. The overhang fades, revealing a wall adorned with gorgonians, tube corals, and black corals as far as the eye can see. Schools of fish are present, some large pelagics are attracted by unusual activity; a stealthy, silent visit from the open sea to satisfy curiosity. The descent continues, friends are still fine, the group's photographer seems to have forgotten us.

At 35 m, a ledge halts our descent; a sleeper has taken refuge there. Ah, the photographer is here! He just sacrificed some shots of a huge turtle for the sleeper. I move away to observe the second part of the wall, descending to 50 m, or rather, as far as the eye can see. Speaking of eyes, I meet a fearless grouper. I hadn't seen it; it is joined by another of its kind. Holding my breath, I move away from the wall to approach the converging one; it comes into contact. I release some bubbles to maintain distance while curiosity cautiously approaches. Friends arrive. Except the photographer and his buddy clinging to the second grouper. If someone disagrees here, it’s my computer showing a revenge stop of 1’ at 3 m: we ascend, anyway Yoyo is at half pressure. We collect the bubble pile stuck to his camera, he’s also at half tank but forgot to mention it (he pays for the drinks!).

The ascent glides past the gorgonians. One last look at the wall. We head back to the mooring. Napo has invited a family member; the computer says “no more stop.” We weren’t in a rush anyway. A turtle nibbles something between the two coral heads under the furious gaze of a grouper. Where is the photographer? Quiet behind me?? This can only be explained by a battery failure! Hahahaaaaaaa! Action all around: trevally, permits, red snapper, snappers… 45’ and many fish start showing red; the parrotfish ladder awaits and the return becomes inevitable… And what do we talk about as soon as the regulator is removed, I’ll let you guess!

I’ve simply described a near-ordinary dive without exaggeration. We have a dozen equally beautiful dives, each with its own variations. I haven’t mentioned manta rays or whale songs, but it happens, like encountering a solitary shark in “the distant space.” You understand, despite the reassuring presence of a nearby airstrip, one must stay cautious and let good marine sense guide you. That is perhaps the hardest: separating dream from reality; here, one builds the other, and one quickly enters the realm of the extraordinary. Sweet dreams…

Fred, your skipper on Hinatea

Voiles et Lagons is a scuba diving school certified by the Ministry of Education.